Shipping clinic - packing segment

[Gecko Ranch]

I'm working on a packing clinic as part of different aspects of shipping for Forum members and also so my own customers can see how I do things at the 'Ranch. For the first segment I am focusing on how to select and prepare deli cups, boxes and labeling. As time goes on this will also be added to and up on my website here: http://www.geckoranch.com/shippingclinic.html - please note the page does not work well with Internet Explorer right now, works great with Netscape. Click on the photos on my website for larger versions offering more detail.

All products here are available at http://www.superiorenterprise.com/

Deli cups are misted lightly or heavily before putting the gecko inside depending on forecasted temperatures for shipping. Paper towel strips are used to help cushion the gecko in the cup. These are pre-punched 4.5" wide 8oz deli cups.





I use blue shop towels as they have proven to be the most durable. Other types of paper towels end up being little moist wads in the bottom of the deli cup, something you want to avoid. You want the paper towels to be thick enough so they can withstand some moisture and keep their integrity somewhat.

First, mist the cup and tear a "bottom" roundish paper towel for the bottom of the deli cup. Then tear strips and fold them over so as to layer the gecko's environment during shipping. Not too tight, not too loose. This way the gecko is comfortable in a little nook of their choosing during transport. Layering also offers "cushioning" from the predictable impacts from shipping by being nestled in the layers.





A way to increase moisture in the deli cup for the gecko is to put in some real sphagnum peat moss - I get mine from http://www.blackjungle.com/. This is handy when temps are a little warmer than you would like for shipping. The sphagnum peat moss absorbs moisture offering evaporative cooling for your little traveler - it is also great padding for small geckos like Phelsuma. Put some in the bottom, mist well and let sit for a few minutes. It is cool to watch this moss expand, which you must do before putting in the rest of the packing material (paper towel strips) and the gecko. I do it progressively, alternating moss and paper towels as shown. Be sure to leave a fairly wide piece on top as shown and anchor it with the lid so the gecko does not have as great of chance to rub directly against the lid.





Here are some Phelsuma packed in deli cups ready to go. Note the tape on top of the last cup, be sure to do this as lids will pop off in the impacts of shipping.

*See next post to continue, there is a limit on images per post*

[Gecko Ranch]

When choosing the size of the deli cup choose one that is just bigger than the gecko and not lots bigger than the gecko otherwise they will have the potential to slide back and forth in the cup with some momentum, not a good thing. I have found the 6.75" wide either 32 or 38oz cups are good for adult Rhacs, leopards and large Phelsuma. These are really great for large Phelsuma as they will flip around and work themselves in a frenzy with "tall" cups - using these short cups you will have a much better success rate.

Do use deli cups and not snake bags. When shipping multiple geckos, each in a snake bag, they can smother each other. Don't ask me how I know this. You may be able to get away with one snake bagged gecko shipped alone, however, I prefer to know there is some structural integrity preserving the oxygen, space and padding for the gecko.






I use the Superior Enterprise 12"x9"x6" and 15"x11"x17" boxes with 1/2" foam for most shipments. I always put something on the bottom to cushion the geckos, airbags as shown work well, also newspaper and bubble wrap. If there is room, then I put popcorn in another layer and then another bubble wrap on top of that for extra insulation and protection from those oh so predictable impacts. Once the geckos are in then I fill in the extra space with newspaper or popcorn (retains heat better) and test jiggle the box. They should be able to jiggle a little but not a lot.

I do use an airhole (as seen) which is probably not needed if the geckos arrive to their destination on time. I also use a large 48 hour heat pack that could potentially suck a lot of oxygen out of a small box. There is that chance the geckos might be late, and I feel better knowing they have air if that is the case.

One good tip is not to pump the geckos full of food right before their trip or they will be traveling in a not-so-pleasant porta-potty.

My next segment will be on temps and when to use cool and heat packs.

[Gecko Ranch]

On to the next segment!

Winter shipping: Gecko Ranch switches to 3/4" foam-lined boxes. This foam is a lot thicker than 1/4."




Sometimes early winter shipping is complicated:

October and November are often warm (80-90Fs) in late California afternoons at the time the geckos are shipped while points eastward are often quite cool at night (30-40Fs) and early morning at the geckos' destination. Cool overnight shipping temperatures necessitate the use of heat packs. Using a heat pack while the geckos are being transported out of warm California presents a problem that Gecko Ranch has successfully applied a solution. A small ziplock bag with a few ice cubes placed away from the heat pack in the box cools the box down enough for the geckos to safely exit California. The ice cubes are melted within a couple hours and then become an nice small bag of warm water, helping to keep the geckos warm until they reach their cool destination.

Heat Packs: For cold winter shipping Gecko Ranch uses 60 hour heat packs by
http://rldtheheatsource.com These are the superior choice to 30-40 hour heat packs with a longer lasting heat in case of delays. Geckos are kept toasty with 60 hour heat packs putting out well over 100F. These heat packs do not spike with high temps like smaller heat packs, stay steady and fade gradually, still putting out considerable heat after three days.

Tape your heat pack to the top inside of the box. The 60 hour is a heavy heat pack so be sure the tape you use to secure it goes not only on the side of the heat pack, but extends a short way on the top outside of the box.

Cold Packs:For warm weather shipping Gecko Ranch uses reuseable cold packs from http://www.superiorenterprise.com. These are placed on the top underside of the box and wrapped in a layer or two of newspaper to keep them from sliding around. Keep a small layer of insulating material between the cold pack and the geckos. Small cold packs are good if exit temps only are high as the geckos will not be exposed to temps more than an hour or two. Large cold packs are good if night shipping will be warm or exit temps are extreme or extended more than a few hours.






Temperature parameters:
Mastering this aspect of shipping is critical to the safe arrival of the geckos. One needs to know the temperature of the exit location and all the hubs in between as well as the arrival temps. http://www.weather.com is useful in tracking temps hour by hour.

UPS offers printable tracking info; this is useful in getting to know where the major and minor hubs are. I save the ones I don't know for future reference. If one hub or exit/arrival location is below or above temperature parameters the shipment is postponed, no ifs ands or buts. Everyone seems to understand that no-one wants to open the box with the dead gecko in it!

http://www.weather.com is useful in tracking temps hour by hour.

Using Gecko Ranch's packaging techniques, Leopard geckos can be shipped in temps as low as 30F and as high as 90F. Other popular geckos like Crested geckos (R. ciliatus) and Day Geckos can be shipped in a 40F to 90F range. If you are not sure about the temperatures or any other aspect of the shipping process, DO NOT SHIP! Take the time to ask someone experienced about it first when you are learning, and only ship in moderate temps until you are successful in doing that for a while. Extreme weather shipping is something you need to work up to!

If the geckos cannot be delivered by 10:30am then consider having them arrive at the local shipping hub where they can be picked up by the customer. This becomes even more critical if arrival temps are not gecko friendly. The chance of your geckos being exposed to improper conditions increase as the shipping transit time increases. Make it as short as possible!

When the geckos arrive ask the customer about the condition of the geckos, the box and the heat pack if you are using one. Use all the data, good or bad outcome, to continually improve your service and make it better for the geckos as they are what it is all about!

Again, bigger pictures are available by clicking on the pix here:

http://www.geckoranch.com/shippingclinic.html

[genevieve]

Nice post, Julie!

I just did some cold weather shipping and used the heat pack you had sent me last Christmas. Working like a charm! The little guys made it to Cali in temps under 30 overnight with no mishaps.

Perhaps you can add a section on selecting heat packs? I know I could use it!

Genevieve

[tmfleo]

Well when I get to the point and selling and shipping where is the best place to get all the shipping supplies.

[Gecko Ranch]

Originally Posted by genevieve

Nice post, Julie!

I just did some cold weather shipping and used the heat pack you had sent me last Christmas. Working like a charm! The little guys made it to Cali in temps under 30 overnight with no mishaps.

Perhaps you can add a section on selecting heat packs? I know I could use it!

Genevieve

Thank you for the positive feedback Genevieve!

As far as heat packs, I like the RLD Enterprises 60 hours (see above post for link). They don't spike up extremely hot like 30 or 40 hour packs. The smaller the heat pack the faster they get hot, reach their maximum temperature and crash. The bigger the pack the more steady the heat and longer it takes to burn out. Stay away from anything rated for less than 30 hours. I also have the RLD 35 hours, sometimes I use those in milder shipping conditions.

The best way to figure out what heat packs are the best is to test 'em. Test 'em in your pocket, test 'em in boxes packed just like you would pack a leopard or crested gecko. I use a radio controlled temp measuring device and put these boxes outside in very cold weather and see what the temp is inside the box every few hours. Keep the data, keep testing different weather conditions. I've done this and the RLD Enterprises win!

One final thought about heat packs, some brands have more duds than others and you may get a "bad" batch. I have not gotten a bad batch of RLDs and their failure rate is very, very low. So, to make sure your packs are good open them up and tape them on the lid at least 15-20 minutes before sealing up the box. After that time period is up touch them, there should be some small amount of heat at minimum coming out. If not, you probably have a bad pack, good that you caught it before shipping out that gecko!

[Gecko Ranch]

Originally Posted by tmfleo

Well when I get to the point and selling and shipping where is the best place to get all the shipping supplies.

Terry, I like Superior Enterprises in Canoga Park, California. See above for a link to them. They have just about everything you need, shipping boxes, deli cups, etc. They have the same philosophy as me, ship out the same day or next day if at all possible! I've been dealing with them for about 14 years.

[Chicubswally]

Great information Julie. I was ready for a reorder of heat packs and the link helped out. Thank you!

[tmfleo]

Thank you Julie I appreciate very much

[Gecko Ranch]

You guys are all very welcome! Do post your findings from any shipping or testing experiences please. We can never have too much input!